Heathenism

As the fall weather continues to astound locals and visitors alike in Krakow, I have taken the opportunity to take a closer look at some of the sites that I initially overlooked, namely those of an ecclesiastic nature.  I have been utterly astounded by the beauty contained within a number of these centuries-old palaces of monotheistic worship.  Because photography is either forbidden or requires an additional payment (hey, I'm on a budget!), I have only a few interior photos to share with you that I was able to sneak in before being reprimanded.


Famous Triptych (Closed) in St Mary's Basilica

Starry Blue Ceiling in St Mary's Basilica 



These photos are of St Mary's Basilica (Mariacki), which is the largest and most well-known of Krakow's churches.  One would never know from the massive and simple red-brick exterior that such delicate and intricate beauty resides within.  The triptych is something of a tourist attraction - it is opened every day at 11:50 by a nun in front of an audience of hundreds.  This altarpiece was created in the late 15th century by Veit Stoss and, when open, depicts 12 scenes from the life of Jesus and Mary.  It was disassembled and hidden away during WWII, but the Nazis found it and took it Nuremburg where it barely survived Allied bombing.  It was recovered, restored, and reinstalled in its proper home about 50 year ago.

 

The ceiling blew my mind.  The combination of the height, the richness of the royal blue color, the architectural/structural elements of the gothic ceiling, and the gleaming gold stars were awe-inspiring.  There was also at least one wall of stained glass in the church that had survived since the 14th century!  How is that possible?  Divine intervention, I'm sure.

Royal Cathedral at Wawel Castle

I stepped into at least a half-dozen other churches over the course of the last two weeks.  Besides St Mary's, the other one that really stood out was Wawel Cathedral.  It is here that monarchs of the days of yore were coronated and interred.  Many other prominent Polish visionaries and revolutionaries are buried here as well, including Tadeusz Kościuszko, Adam Mickiewicz, and two Polish Saints.  Wawel Cathedral was built in the 14th century, with many alterations occuring over the years that made the cathedral what it is today - a hodgepodge of towers and domes from different architectural periods.

 

I am leaving Poland in a few days, satisfied with the luxury of time that I granted myself here and the opportunity to truly absorb and reflect upon my surroundings.  I am ready to move on to my next destinations, where I can only hope to be as nourished as I've been here in my great great grandfather's homeland.  The itinerary of these future destinations is coming together in expected and unexpected ways.  Next stop, Paris.  It has been 9 years since I was there last.  Where have the years gone?